Saturday, 20 September 2014

Apple 'Brumble'


As part of our gluten free training for caterers, we intend to provide some simple recipes that even the busiest of kitchens can produce, using ingredients that are to hand in most kitchens.

Please watch the video below and follow the recipe. 



Crumbles are extremely cost effective in two ways.  Firstly, this particular recipe allows you to make use of any stale bread in your larder (thus reducing waste); and secondly, seasonal fruits are cheap, in plentiful supply and should be at their best.  As with the Yorkshire Puddings (see an earlier Blog) the following recipe is very easy to make and all the ingredients can be easily sourced.



A crumble is best served hot.  Why not finish it with a generous helping of custard; a healthy dollop of cream; or a scoop or two of ice cream - there are dairy free alternatives available from most supermarkets.




The topping is quite sweet, so it doesn’t harm to use slightly tart / sharp fruits to give an excellent contrast to the dish.



The picture above shows an oval-shaped oven-proof dish measuring 11” x 7” and is enough to feed approximately four to six people.



GLUTEN FREE, WHEAT FREE & DAIRY FREE



Eight eating apples (or four cooking and four eating) or any seasonal fruit

125g golden granulated sugar

125g dairy free spread

125g golden syrup

250g fresh gluten & wheat free breadcrumbs

50g of nuts of your own choosing (35g ground and 15g larger chunks for added texture)



BE SURE TO CHECK – Nuts are inherently gluten free.  Processing can result in cross contamination, so check any labelling carefully to ensure there is no gluten present.

Butter can be substituted for the dairy free spread where appropriate.

                                                                                                                                           

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Cooking time: 30 minutes

Serves / makes: 4-6 portions



1.  Peel and core the apples.  Dice half the quantity of apples (or all of the cooking apples) and gently heat them in a saucepan with a little water.  Cook them until they are soft.  Dice the remaining eating apples into larger chunks and set aside in a bowl of water.

2.  Place the sugar, dairy free spread and golden syrup into a separate saucepan and once again heat slowly until all the contents have dissolved/melted.

3.  Once melted, stir into your breadcrumbs and nuts mixing thoroughly.

4.  Grease your oven-proof dish.  Drain your diced (non-cooked apples) and put them into the dish followed by the cooked apples.  Then pour the topping over and smooth down until you have an even covering.

5.  Place the dish in the middle of the oven for approximately 30 – 40 minutes.  Cook until golden brown.  Serve hot.

Tuesday, 16 September 2014

Saw it ...... nailed it!

Last week was my little girl's birthday.  As is the want of an eleven year old, she wanted a special cake, however she actually doesn't like cake (who doesn't like cake?  Must be from her father's side!), but she wants a party tea with a few friends and a pinata. Now call me a grumpy old woman, but over the last twelve years of having kids I have been to many a party with a pinata.  Sugar fueled hooligans bash the life out of a pink and purple donkey stuffed with more sugar.  Inevitably someone has been hit accidentally with the stick and moreover the thing never breaks, so dads step in and bash the life out of this poor thing causing all the sweets to scatter everywhere and children then push and shove each other out of the way to grab what they can. Utter carnage!

So in the interest of public safety, I decide against the pinata, but remembered the front cover of an Asda magazine recently.......hey presto all problems solved.

The inspirational picture on the front of the magazine can be seen here: http://issuu.com/asdamagazine/docs/asda_july_2014compressed.  The cake consists of coloured layers of sponge with a hole cut out of the centre and filled with sweets.  What a cool idea. 

So I toddled off to the shops to get some food colouring.  Got home after popping to Morrison's, as I had to pick up other stuff from there, only to read the back of the colouring to find that theirs "may contain gluten, wheat, shellfish, dairy etc".  Why?

Anyway, so I went to Asda (completely in the other direction) and picked up their natural food colouring.  I decided on orange, red and blue.  There wasn't any yellow, but I figured normal sponge would do.

The big day comes when I decide to make this cake.  I made up a double normal sponge mix and quartered it.  I then added orange to one quarter - not a bad orange colour (although I used more colouring than the recipe recommended).  I then mixed up the blue.  We now have a grey insipid looking sponge.  In the vain hope that it will cook up with more vibrance, I put it in the oven anyway.  The red looked more purple than red and I once again decided the colour may take more when cooked.  The big risk was that if I added even more colouring it would not only change the consistency of the cake, but also taste foul.

So, after cooking and cooling, we now have one plain layer, one orange, one grey and one grey/purple.  Not quite the look I was going for.  I cut the middle out of two of the layers, smothered butter cream over the layers so that they would stick together and filled with lots of sweets.  I topped it with the plain layer and then iced it with butter cream (I never professed to be a cake decorator!) and stuck loads of sprinkles, wafer flowers and gummy bears on the outside.





Although it wasn't quite the look I was aiming for, she was still absolutely bowled over by it and her mates thought it was the coolest thing ever...............not sure the parents thanked me for the sugar rush though!

Thursday, 19 June 2014

The 'rise' of bread mixes

Pardon the pun but I just couldn't resist!

As you can imagine as a manufacturer we buy in our flours, nuts, seeds etc. from a couple of wholesalers.  I had to suppress a wry smile the other day when our sales representative from one of these companies was a bit put out that we didn't attend a 'gluten free' day at his premises.  The purpose of the day was to sell gluten free bread mixes to bakeries - the fact that we are specifically a gluten free bakery must have missed him.  He didn't quite get the point that we make everything from scratch and that we don't use mixes, but never mind.

Anyway that got me thinking about what follow-up is there re: these gluten free mixes?  If a wholesaler is marketing these mixes to 'normal' bakeries with a view to producing gluten free products, where's the education in making these products in a gluten free environment?  Do the bakeries concerned even know that they can't call the fruits of their labour gluten free without sending the products off to be tested for levels of gluten; or at least batch testing internally? 

I can only imagine the amount of flour that is flying around in a non-gluten free bakery.  We have traces of gluten free flour that cover every work surface literally minutes after cleaning as the flour is suspended in the air for long periods, especially really light flours like tapioca starch.  What must a 'normal' bakery be like?  And what about the bread tins that despite industrial cleaning still contain crumbs from years of use cooking bread products.

This is where the responsibility side has to kick in.  I hope that the company that produces these mixes provides at least basic gluten free training so that as many measures are in place to limit the contamination risk and that the purchasers of these loaves are made fully aware of the environment that they are produced in.

All in all I'm a little bit anxious about it.  Even if the bakeries used the correct terminology and stated that the bread was made with "no gluten containing ingredients", I personally would steer well clear, but I am extremely sensitive.  I really hope that those bakeries that buy the mixes are doing so with the best intentions and not jumping on the gluten free bandwagon.....

Tuesday, 10 June 2014

A little bit misleading ......

A few days ago there was an article published by The Daily Mail on the new European legislation in respect of providing foods with potential allergens. http://www.dailymail.co.uk  Fundamentally the law is changing in December this year and makes it an offence not to declare any one of the 14 allergens listed below in food products:

Celery, Cereals containing gluten, Crustaceans, Eggs, Fish, Lupin, Milk, Molluscs, Mustard, Peanuts, Sesame, Soy beans, Sulphur dioxide at levels above 10mg/kg, or 10 mg/litre, expressed as SO2, Tree nuts (such as walnut, hazelnut, almond, etc.).

As anti-European legislations go, the article is quite vociferous in its approach with its opening line on the legislation being…..


“Restaurants, cafés and schools are being forced by the EU to identify and list 14 potential allergens in their food.”


I love the word “forced” here!  Anyone would think that the experts from DEFRA (The Department for Food, Environment and Rural Affairs) and the FSA (Food Standards Agency) haven’t had a say in this legislation, which has been drafted, re-drafted, consulted on and honed for the last few years.  It’s not the EU putting a stamp on us at all, it’s about the European Community at large agreeing on some food industry standards to protect the consumers (and the businesses) that operate in the Union.


The premise of the law is that any food item sold, or provided at functions etc., has to be labelled (whether verbal or written) if it contains one of the allergens and that allergen needs to be communicated to the consumer.  I am very surprised that a ‘renowned cook and TV Food expert’ would think this a bad thing.  Surely any cook of any worth at all would be totally up to speed with what ingredients go in the food they cook?  Have we learnt nothing from the recent horse meat scandal?


As it happens I disagree that the small businesses will suffer.  Small businesses that buy in a lot of pre-prepared food will be ok as all goods supplied by manufacturers have to be labelled accordingly under the legislation anyway, so approaching the suppliers is not an issue.  Those small businesses that cook from scratch using fresh ingredients will also be fine, as they will know all the ingredients that go into each dish.  Yes it’s a bit of work initially writing out all the ingredients and highlighting those allergens, but even dishes of the day are repeated again and again.  I‘m also not really quite sure how listing an ingredient will 'kill innovation'.  I can’t imagine making a decision on cooking a dish being dependent on whether I have to declare it contains celery or not.

I do take the point that massive fast food chains will have it easier as they have standard food items and whole departments dedicated to writing out menus and ingredients lists.  They still also have to go through the process of raw ingredient traceability and ingredients listing and changing all labels and information sheets accordingly, but they have known about this change for quite a while now.


It is also quite misleading that the allergens need to be shown on the menus.  It has to either be made available verbally or be visible in writing, not necessarily on the menus.


According to the article the chairman of the Restaurant Association, the 7th Earl of Bradford, stated:


‘What people who have allergies need to do is to alert the staff when they visit a restaurant. If the staff are trained properly, they will then be able to explain which dishes they will have a problem with,’ he said.


This is very true; however this is where the legislation falls down in my opinion anyway.  There are two sides to this. 


The first is that I’m not sure he understands what it is like to have an allergy or food intolerance.  I am a coeliac and thus cannot eat any foods containing gluten.  I hate ….and can I just emphasise HATE a little bit more…. going to eat in a restaurant and having to have the conversation about what food I can and cannot eat, the waiter/waitress then goes to have a chat with chef, then comes back to tell me what I can and can’t eat if they remove this that and the other from the meal etc. etc. etc.  Meanwhile my fellow diners are all a bit bored of having to discuss my diet yet again.  Then it doesn’t stop there.  The meals come out and I look suspiciously at the food handed to me (no-one mentioned the coleslaw…..is the coleslaw gluten free). Then we have the whole conversation again with the waiter/waitress. He/she then goes away and checks again.  Meanwhile everyone else’s food is getting cold.  I ask them to start.  I’m still waiting for confirmation and it’s either “no it’s fine” or, “oh we’re really sorry you can’t eat that bit”.  My food is now cold.  Everyone else has finished and I’m chewing my way through mine…… ! This is a normal regular dilemma.   


Does he have any idea how liberating it is to go to one of the, generally fast food, restaurants and order either straight off the special menu or specially labelled dish.  I can read what I fancy in my own time without numerous conversations with the staff.  I don’t feel embarrassed about being different and I can just enjoy eating out, because let’s face it, it’s supposed to be pleasurable.


The second issue (and this will always be true) is the contamination issue.  It saddens me greatly that some companies go to great lengths to provide a gluten free meal and then fall over in the preparation, cooking, plating and serving of it.  It’s not enough to know what is in the food, it is also how it’s prepared that is significant and the legislation does not take this into account at all.


There is a dire need for compulsory training of all staff on allergens.   There is so much blind ignorance as to the impact of consuming an allergenic foodstuff.  Phrases like “estimated 21 million Britons who claim to have food allergies” further add to the perception that we are all just fussy eaters and that a little bit won’t hurt us.


A further curveball is just around the corner.  The gluten free labelling legislation is being amended yet again in 2016….more on that to come I think!

Thursday, 10 April 2014

An interesting challenge.......


Quacking cakes

As a coeliac I have cooked gluten free food for twenty years. Since my daughter was born ten years ago I have also been making it dairy free, and commercially making food for the last nine years. So you would have thought that a client asking me to make food with duck eggs instead of chicken eggs wouldn’t be a problem at all…..and pardon the pun….that I would take to it like a duck to water!

However, I experienced something quite unlike I ever have before and that really resonated with me. When cooking the special mixes to make them chicken egg free, I duly cleaned down all the equipment and substituted the eggs where appropriate. What I didn’t account for was my anxiety. I checked and double checked that I used the white eggs, not the brown and that no other ingredient could contain chicken egg (such as icing sugar). It really concerned me that I had covered all bases (knowing what it’s like to be ill from food) and that the food would turn out tasty.

That got me thinking….what must it be like for chefs in a busy kitchen. Someone like me turns up (either with or without warning) and takes them right out of their comfort zone. I cook gluten, wheat and dairy free food every day. I’m used to reading food labels and looking out for those allergens (in fact I don’t have them in the kitchen, so during food production it’s not an issue) and used to the process and results of my cooking. What if I were not used to that?

Most people that cook food for a living are passionate about the food that they cook. They want diners to enjoy it and endeavour to make it as tasty and look as appetising as possible. This means that they will generally stick to tried and tested food items, cooked in a certain way to show off their culinary skills to the max. And then I come in…..

I want food that’s appetising and free from certain food allergens, that, let’s face it, completely change the way some other foods work due to the chemical reactions, and I want my taste buds to be stimulated and tantalised. I don’t want boring run of the mill jacket potatoes. Safe, but extremely uninspiring.

So, here’s the dilemma. I train chefs and catering establishments how to manage gluten free diets. I advocate that chefs should do more than a jacket potato, that they should cater for people like me, because I’m a diner too and my family’s money is worth just as much as another family. I advocate that the food offering should not be ‘special’, to draw attention to me and make my meal an issue…..but it is an issue.

Catering for those with allergies is outside of a chef’s comfort zone if, and this is the crux, it’s not managed correctly to remove the fear. If there are a few dishes that are made naturally gluten free, the same way, every day, then making them on the day that I come in and eat becomes just part of a normal day’s service for not only the kitchen staff, but front of house too. Don’t make me a special meal and put extra pressure on the kitchen….have some safe, manageable, workable meals that can always be used.

Anyway my anxiety proved unfounded. The bread and cakes turned out fab and just as light and tasty.......

Monday, 22 April 2013

Training could have prevented this.......



For those of you who follow my twitter and Facebook accounts you may be aware of a recent article in The Sun


regarding a lady suing because she was accidentally served normal pasta instead of the requested gluten free pasta.  It was heightened by the fact that she had checked three times with the serving staff that the pasta she was given was definitely gluten free.   Despite being a little sensationalist (after all that’s the nature of the newspaper), the fact remains that a renowned restaurant offered a gluten free meal and then failed to deliver.  Unfortunately for Ms Richardson the ramification of that is that she was too ill to undergo a life saving operation.

What I’m astounded by is the responses to the article.  The issue is not whether coeliacs or those with any allergy should eat out at all, but that a restaurant promised a certain meal and did not provide it.  If any establishment offers any gluten free meal it has a responsibility to ensure that it is doing so within strict guidelines.  It is no different to chopping cooked meat on a raw meat board…..the likely outcome is that someone will be ill.

Sadly, and I really hope this is not the case, it may put some catering establishments off providing gluten free options.  Putting together gluten free meals should be part and parcel of any eatery, but the trick is the management of it.  It should be set out and handled properly, to not only protect the business, but also to enhance the experience of the diner.

Coeliacs only make up one percent of the population.  However, we rarely dine alone, so if a company does not offer a well-managed gluten free option, then a business could potentially lose out on two plus diners – can anyone afford to do that?

Thursday, 18 April 2013

Yummmmmmy lunch!

Okay so I have turkey steaks, breadcrumbs coming out of my ears and leftover spring onion, lime & coconut flatbread......with my ready steady cook head on I create........



....... a breadcrumbed turkey steak, spring onion, lime & coconut flatbread sandwich, with mayo, lettuce and seasoning..........was so yummy!